Development
Formative Assessment
I conducted a practise makeup before the assessment in order to work out the logistics of the indiviudal elements needed to complete the makeup. My model was very busy and was only able to stay for an hour in which I could practise on him. He was also unavailable for any further practise after the initial assessment therefore I had to conduct practise on myself, which was not ideal.
Feedback
I received feedback from my lecturer Carolyne she made some comments for improval which I took note of in order to improve my makeup for the summative assessment. The points from the feedback included:
- Style the Moustache and Beard, the hair needs tonging and cutting into the style of the portrait
- Think about the colour scheme, consider greys in the shadows rather than browns.
- Consider the shape of the nose, is it too bulbous, try and resculpt the piece.
- Make sure the bald cap is attached all around the head.
- Consider the shadows in the makeup as I will not be able to recreate these with my small knowledge of photography and lighting.
The assessment was very helpful as I could see the different elements to which I needed to alter and which worked well. At the time of the preactise I had not completed styling the hair work and therefore the final result did not accurately represent my portrait. The elements of the makeup that I was happy with were the application of the silicone pieces, the edges blended very well. Similarly the coluration of these pieces worked really well with my model's skin tone. The only error that I made with these pieces was the application of a brow piece under the eye, the pieces looked very similar and were created in one mould. Fortunately I had created spare flatpieces so I could apply the correct one on the brow, however due to time I was unable to remove the one under the eye to replace with the correct piece. The application of the bald cap worked very well, however I had not made the cap itself large enough to fit my model's head. I found that he had a large amount of volumous hair that made the cap harder to fit to the head. I was unable to attach the cap at the back of the head and around the ears due to the sizing.
Elements of the practise that I was not happy with were the nose, I had run the mould in silicone a few times prior to the assessment however none came out of the mould successfully, there were issues with the cap plastic sticking to the plaster mould and the silicone ripped in places due to this problem. I therefore created the nose out of gelatin with flesh coloured pigment. The nose shape itself came out very successfully, however the edge at the top of the nose was very thick and did not blend successfully. A note from my lecturer said that the tip of the nose was too bulbous for my portrait and that I should consider resculpting and moulding the nose to get a more accurate result. The colour scheme of the makeup was also another element to consider as I had created te colouring to match my model rather than recreating the portrait. I used a lot of brown tones for the under-eye area whereas the portrait has grey-black tones. Similarly the flesh has a yellow based colouration in the portrait whereas my model had slightly red toned areas to the skin which pulled through the makeup. I also noticed that the eyes had red colouring in the portrait which makes the stand out and seem sunken in, this is an element to which I must cater for in the final assessment.
These photographs show the makeup during and after the assessment. The first image shows the makeup prior to colouration and the wig application. I was very happy with the silicone piece application and the bald cap although it did not fit around the head, the forehead line worked very well. It is visible in the bottom photograph that the postiche work still required styling, however the overall finish of the makeup was successful, if not exactly accurate to the portrait. The points mentioned above are all elements to which I will further develop and experiment in order to acheive a more successful final makeup.
Experiments
Firstly I experimented with bald caps and the methodology with which to attach the wig to it. I do not have photograph evidence of this stage, however I practised numerous bald caps inserting different types of lace into the cap plastic. Originally I used fine lace in the bald cap however when I tried to attach the wig to this the lace ripped and did not hold the wig securely. The next experiment was to use the tougher netting we had been given to practise on at the beginning of the term. This proved effective as it held the wig securely and did not move. The only issue with this was the colouration of the net as it was a bright luminous green colour. However after trials and experiments I realised that the green could not be seen throught the dark, thick hari of the wig and therefore would work well for the project. My next experiment was to see whether I needed to create pin curls underneath the bald cap. I tried creating these, however my model's hair proved difficult to hold in a pin curl and when the wig attached there were lumps. I therefre decided not to use pin curls as the grips held on to my model's hair well without them. To ensure that the pins held in place I made sure to cover the lace with a couple of layers of cap plastic as this would give the pins a bit of extra support.
I also considered using latex to create the bald cap however I knew that it was difficult to blend from previous experience and was prone to ripping and therefore was too much of a risk to use for the project. Therefore I decided to use Cap Plastic. I also experimented with Super Baldiez combined with alcohol to create a very thin, smooth edge. This worked particularly well in my practises, the front edge blended perfectly into the skin. Therefore I decided to make the majority of the cap using regular cpa plastic and the edging with Super Baldiez combined with Isopropyl Alcohol.
Makeup Colouring
As I did not have access to my model during the period between assessments I had to conduct very simple makeup tests on myself to try and work out how to improve the colouration of the overall piece. I was not happy with the colouring from the formative as it did not match that of the portrait well so I tried to play with layering colours to create the exact style and shading. I decided that I was not going to try and create texture in the makeup and simply apply this in photoshop after the final makeup as I felt creating the texture could make the makeup look muddy.
I completed some tests for the colour scheme of the makeup. However I did not apply prosthetic pieces as they would not fit my face and would not affect the colour choices. I began by applying a very pale foundation and powdering this. I then layered on the shadow using predominantly a black greasepaint stick and mixing slight white to create the greys. I then created the under eye bags again using greasepaint white and black. To create the sunken eyes I used red greasepaint blended into the socket. I would ideally like to see some differentiation in the colouring around the eyebrows, I would consider using some brown tones on the brows and at the edges of the shadowing to make the difference less sudden. These makeup tests were completed very quickly and provided a simple layout guid and the basic colouring.
 Test MakeupTo test the makeup design I needed to try and create the look on my face which was difficult as I have a very different facial structure to my model. However I wanted to try the shadows on the side of the face to understand where they should be placed and the colouration. I did this makeup very roughly to assertain where things should be placed and general colouring. |  Test MakeupI tried taking a photo with the flash to see if it made a difference to the colouring. I prefer the colours in this photograph, however the yellowness of the foundation dissapeared. I think the eyebrows need a difference in colouration to distinguish the shadow from features. I like the red around the eyes as it makes them appear sunken in like the portrait. |  Foundation Colour TestsTo test the yellows of various foundations I looked at different products. Top to bottom, the yellow colour from a concealer wheel worked well I like the muted tones, however it was a bit dark, foundation mac nw was too dark, I really liked this colour the yellow based foundation from kryolan's foundation palette and a combination of the concealer colour and the kryolan foundation. My favourite was the yellow Kryolan as it had pale tone to it, yet held the yellow colouring |
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