Important Lectures
Mature Make-up
Cotteril.L 2014, Makeup for Media and Performance, Arts University Bournemouth, 10/10/2014
Applying makeup on a mature person's face is an art, it must make the subject look beautiful and youthful, hiding the signs of ageing whilst not covering every area of their face in thick makeup. I am not well versed in the practise of mature makeup and therefore this tutorial was very helpful and gave me a good starting point from which to start. I will practise this style of makeup in the future in order to become more experienced and relaxed whilst applying the makeup.
The first step in a makeup for mature skin is to make sure that the skin is properly cleansed, as we age the most focus goes into the well being of the skin and its healthiness. Cleansing will remove all dirt and existing products on the skin. A good type of brush for applying moisturiser and primer to the skin are that of duo fibres. These type of brushes have two lengths of hair, in order to work the product into the skin and buff it.
As the main focus of mature makeup is the skin a primer with a slight tint would be desireable, to give the skin a slight glow. As you are creating a mature makeup the subject will likely have a preference and routine to the application and therefore it is highly important to makeup sure they are comfortable with the result. This means not to apply too much product, to keep their skin light and make their natural skin tone pull through.
To highlight the face a darker foundation should be applied around the edges of the skin with lighter moisturiser in the centre. Blend these together to create a natural finish on the face.Use a jet milled powder for warmth on the skin, do not contour as this will highlight areas of the face that do not want to be highlighted. Use high shine blush to add radiance to the cheeks. Make sure to use powder blush as it will last longer than creme blush. Creme does not sit will on powder and would therefore ruin the makeup however would work well on mature skin as it is primed with cremes. Use a mineralise highlighter on the areas that need highlighting on the face. Make sure to highlight sunken areas of the face however try not to contour.
 Joker Original |  Joker Photoshopped |
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Digital Make-up Implications for the Make-up Artist
Tindall.P, 2014, Makeup for Media and Performance, Arts University Bournemouth, 14/10/2014
As technology progresses the use of Computer Generated Imaging and Digital Technology is becoming a much larger aspect of the film industry and therefore has a large impact on the role as a make-up artist. There are many different methodologies that are used to create different final results, the technology has progressed drastically within the last 10 years that the equipment has become much more advanced creating realistic results.
Digital Technology used within films began through the use of Gait Analysis, a programme that records the movement of disabled individuals to analyse what needs to be corrected with their movements. It can also be used to analyse the running techniques used by athletes and help them to achieve the most successful approach to their movements without any damage to their bodies. This technology consists of many cameras at different angles around the subject which record their movement whilst they complete certain activities, e.g running, walking. To record the movement on computers the subject wears infared transmitters on their legs which feed infomation to the computer allowing the programmes to analyse the data received and decipher any issues and how they can be fixed. This video to the right displays the results of collecting the data via Gait Analysis, it has recorded the movement of an individual and noted any anomolies in their movement. We can see the movement from different angles showing the various cameras that were used to record the action giving an accurate analysis of their technique.
Photoshop Tutorial
Humphrey.W, 2014, Makeup for Media and Performance, 24/10/2014
We had a tutorial about the basic tools used within photoshop, these include the Dodge and Burn Tools, the Clone Stamp Tool, the Liquify - Bloat Tool and various other facilities available such as how the layers work and orientation of an image. I have already got experience in the use of Photoshop as I completed have completed various courses which involved the use of this programme, however I am slightly rusty with these elements. I used a photograph of myself as the Joker from Batman to edit as I felt it could be improved greatly. I had used very old prosthetic piece which did not blend in to the skin well, so I could remove these using the clone stamp tool. I also wanted to increase the hue and saturation of the hair to give it a more powerful green colour. To do this I used the Selection Brush, Magic Selcetion and Quick Selection tool to get an accurate selection around the hair in order to change the colour of just the hair and not affect the rest of the image. I completed a similar process with the eyes and mouth creating a selection around these areas in order to change the brightness and contrast creating more vivid and stronger colouring. I kept the alteration relativly simple, however I could have experimented further with filters and effects to create a style that was very different to the original. I wanted to keep the photograph believeable and not too altered which I believe I have successfully completed in the altered image below.
Trend Analysis
Cotteril.L 2014, Makeup for Media and Performance, Arts University Bournemouth, 10/10/2014
As an editorial or fashion makeup artist it is alway crucial to stay on trend with the current and future styles within the industry. Therefore a neccessary skill to have is the ability to analyse trends which are appearing and becoming more prominent. There are various methods of finding these trends, from fashion weeks in various countries, the new products that big branded make-up companies are launching and from social media. Being able to stay up to date with current trends is crucial as you can keep your portfolio up to date and stay ahead of the times.
The four trends that are becoming prevalant in the 2014/15 collections are:
- Off Colour
- Streamlined
- On Reflection
- Unprocessed
To find the characteristics of each of these trends social media sites such as Pinterest and Instagram provide a great variety of sources, images and designs. Similarly the websites for fashion shows such as Vogue will allow you to see make-ups from many different collections to get a good ideas of the overall makeup styles chosen in the fashion weeks. It is important to consider where the fashion week is being held, the make-up will be very different from place to place
I found two very helpful videos detailing the qualities of the trends they give excellent examples and a very detailed list of what is involved in each of the makeups. They detail all the information necessary to understand each look.
Gait Analysis was the doorway to creating digital effects for films as it allowed for facial expressions and actions to be recorded on film and altered through the use of programmes to change the visual elements making the impossible possible.
Examples of early use of computer generated imagery within films can be seen in numerous films predominantly beginning in the 1970s. The images and films below display some of the first uses of digital technology on the silver screen these techniques have since been fine tuned and refined to create the technology that we have available in current day.
From Real to Reality: Davy Jones is Brought to Life, 2007 [Online Image] Available From: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Davy_Jones_(Pirates_of_the_Caribbean) Accessed Date: 18/11/2014
The images of Davy Jones show the process from original filming to the final result that is seen in the film. It is impressive how the MoCap on Bill Nighy's face captures his movement and transforms it into the hyper realistic character of Davy Jones. The small dots collect his movement as a facial reference in order to be able to build layers on top of the face creating the characters in the film.
This video of the digital effects in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows shows a clear example of MoCap as Ralph Fiennes wears small dots on his face in order for the digital team to collect the movements he makes and transform it into the noseless Voldemort. The video details the process in a clear and concise way to get a better understanding of the digital process.
MsEverythingsfakes Channel, 2011, The Makeup and Visual Effects Voldemort Deathly Hallows Part 1[Online] Availble From: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bmM0ZqiQCA Date Accessed: 18/11/2014
The digital technology used in films has developed so much that it is beginning to be used in live action. Therefore in the foreseable future it will be possible to create digital effects in live time on a moving person. There have been examples of its use where a model has sat still with projections cast onto their face completely changing their features making them have an entirely different face. The face must be painted entirely white for the projections to be translated, this allows for complete distortion of the face. This technology is still in the early stages of development therefore there is not much experimentation on the topic, however the
video below displays the current point in the research. It display a
woman moving her face and the projection follows changing the angle
and perspective in live time. This technology of face mapping is very
advanced and canbe utlised in the industry for many potential projects.
The use of this technology may first become apparent in fashion through
catwalks andvarious other event like such as it will allow for fast
changes and different designs to be shown on the model's face.
Something Wonderful, 2014, Omote Real Time Face Tracking and Projection Mapping [Online] Available From: http://vimeo.com/103425574 Date Accessed: 18/11/2014
Films like Avatar were groundbreaking in terms of the technology used within the filming and post-production processes. During the filming the actors all wore small cameras mounted in front of their faces to capture every minute detail in their performances allowing for a creation of a character that resembles the actors extermly closely. The actors were also filmed with cameras that tracked their movements and created realtime skeletal recreations of their movements onto a computer. This allowed the creative team to have a basis for the actor's movement to build the characters upon. The technology for its time was very detailed, however as time has progressed the technology has advanced at extortionate rates making the film dated in current time. There are three more Avatar films in the pipeline all will utilise the technology of the time in which they are made and help to move the digital technology into a new era.
Make-up For Different Races
Cotteril.L 2014, Makeup for Media and Performance, Arts University Bournemouth, 10/10/2014
Different races will appear in all forms in the industry, in television, fashion, film and theatre therefore it is highly important to understand the elements in creating a successful beauty and natural makeup for each race. There are many different products that are used on certain skin types and not on others, thus making it important to know which is used for which. Below I explore the different skin types, the products used on certain skin and any stylistic techniques which apply to particular face shaping and colouring.
Tommy Beauty Pro, Makeup 101 Colour Theory and Makeup Artistry, 2013 [Online Image] Available From: http://tommybeautypro.wordpress.com/2013/01/05/makeup-101-colour-theory-make-up-artistry/ Accessed Date: 28/11/2014
Skin Tones
To understand the different types of skin tones I have researched into the colouration of skin and examples of these skin types in order to get a better understanding of the qualities that appear in each different skin type.
There are three predominant tones to the skin these are:
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Warm Undertones
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Cool Undertones
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Neutral Undertones
A person with warm undertones has a golden based colouration to the skin, they are on the brighter scale of skin tones. This category is represented on the chart to the right by the Golden Tone column. As seen in these photographs the skin has a clear warm and golden glow to distinguish from the others.
Cool undertoned skin has a slight blue and pink tone to the skin, they are generally paler than others with the same skin colour. Cool skin can look sallow and ashen. The photographs in the left column depict cool undertoned skin they have paler and grey pigment in their faces.
If a person had neutral undertones in their skin they will have a combination of warm and cool tones. There is no extreme of either tone, therefore making them sit in the middle of the spectrum. This skin tone is shown in the central column of the chart on the right. Their skin will have both pink and golden colouration.
A helpful way to distinguish the colouration of someone's skin is to look at their veins on the wrist, depending on the colour that they appear will give a helpful indication as to the colouration of their skin. If a person has very blue veins they are likely to have cool undertones in their skin if their veins are green it is likely they have warm undertones. If the veins are indistinguishable as either blue or green it is likely they have neutral undertones. (Paula's Choice Skincare, How to Determine your Skin Tone)
Wikia, Maggie Q, 2013 [Online Image] Available From: http://die-bestimmung.wikia.com/wiki/Maggie_Q Accessed Date: 2/12/2014
People, DIY Star Hair and Makeup, 2011 [Online Image] Available From: http://www.peoplestylewatch.com/people/stylewatch/gallery/0,,20550522_21090249,00.html Accessed Date: 2/12/2014
Urbynloft, Vanessa Williams, Available From: http://urbynloft.com/vanessa-williams-opens-up-about-being-molested/ Accessed Date: 2/12/2014
People, Lucy Liu, 2014 [Online Image] Available From: http://www.graphis.com/entry/ab5a6d12-08a3-4334-8b1f-d3d2542aa305/ Accessed Date: 2/12/2014
Wikia, Jamie Chung, 2012 [Online Image] Available From: http://suckerpunch.wikia.com/wiki/Jamie_Chung Accessed Date: 2/12/2014
Celebrity Post, Halle Berry, 2014 [Online Image] Available From: http://celebritypost.net/halle-berry-plastic-surgery/ Accessed Date: 2/12/2014
Celebrity Sizes, Parminda Nagra, 2014 [Online Image] Available From: http://www.celebritysizes.com/parminder-nagra-bra-size-age-weight-height-measurements/Accessed Date: 2/12/2014
Breakfast with Audrey Beautiful Crush Lupita Nyong'o, 2014 [Online Image] Available From: http://www.breakfastwithaudrey.com.au/2014/01/23/lupita-nyongo/ Accessed Date: 2/12/2014
The makeup worn by people of different ethnicities will highlight the desired features of their faces and the colouration will apply directly to their skin tones to create a whole overall look that it aesthetically pleasing. I have chosen a selection of photographs of celebrities with different ethnicities to understand their style of makeup. I have also selected these photographs as their makeups wil have been completed by professional makeup artists. These makeups focus on either a natural look of focusing on either the lips or the eyes. For example Maggie Q has a very natural makeup with slight blush and highlighting alongside a natural eye and lip. Whereas Zoe Saldana has the focus on her red lips, with a natural eye which focuses on the colouration of her skin to create a smooth, yet powerful look.
It is important to understand the differences between ethnicities as our faces are made up of different features and structures. For example the most visible aspect of asian ethnicitiy is the epicanthic fold, a fold of skin on the upper eyelid that partially covers the inner corner of the eye (Debreceni.T, Special Makeup Effects for Stage and Screen) This is important to understand when doing makeup on the skin as typically the eye is made to look wider through makeup. To do this the shaping of the eyeshadow colouring will need to be carefully considered so as to make the overall look wider and more open. This can be seen in the photographs Jamie Chung and Lucy Liu.
A large portion of makeup focuses on enhancing the natural features and skin tone, with darker colours around the eyes giving shape and nude lips. The lip colouration is generally enhanced with only slight alterations in colour to match the makeup on the eyes.
There are many different characteristic of various Asian groups. T.Debreceni, Special Makeup Effects describes the characteristics of the different groups.
Chinese. China, Mongolia:
- Head is intermediate, between long and round
- Pigmentaion yellowish brown
- Eyes are oblique, with a epicanthic fold
- Hair is black and Straight
Japanese. There are two distinct types:
1. Fine Features
- Taller and more slender
- Elongated face
- Prominent, narrow, arched nose
- Eyes are either straight ot oblique epicanthic fold may be present
2. Coarse Features
- Short and Stocky
- Broad face, short concave nose
- Rounded nostrils
- Oblique Eyes, ususally with epicanthic fold
- Darker complexion
American Indians
- Brown Skin with reddish or yellowish tinge
- Dark eyes
- Straight, coarse hair
- Minimal facial and body hair
- Broad face with high, prominent cheekbones
- Head is usually round
- Varied Stature
- Nose varies from flat to aquliline (curved or hooked)
Parminda Nagra is of Indian descent, she has a darker skin tone, with olive undertones. She has large, dark eyes which have been highlighted with makeup giving them a rounder appearance. The colouration is also brighter to create a contrast. There is minimal makeup on the rest of her face, simple beauty makeup to highlight and contour her face.
Halle Berry is a descendant of Caucasion and African American parents, her features are similar to that of both. She has the dark African American eyes and skin colouring, however her face shape and nose are that of a caucasion.
Similarly Vanessa Williams is of African American descent she has similar features, slender nose, and larger eyes. Her face shape is more resemblent of the African American ethnicity also her lips are much larger and fuller. Both Berry and Williams have hair typical of African Americans thicker and fuller, with dark colouring.
Lupita Nyong'os makeup has been applied to reflect the dress she is wearing. It matches the colouration, whilst working well with her skin tone. This colour works well as it is matte colour and her skin undertone has a warm colouring. Her makeup in this photograph is quite unusual as the makeup has such a bold eye, with also in proportion a bold colour on her lip. This works well because the eye is so powerful there still remains a focus on the face.
I have found looking at examples of celebrities and their makeups that have been applied very helpful in the deconstruction of what differs between ethnicities and the style in which their makeup should be applied.
Vacume Forming
Vacume Forming is an essential skill to master as it can be used in many different ways for a whole range of uses. We were shown a brief demonstration on the use of the machiene and saftey guidlines that must be obided when used. The process of using the machiene involves first placing the desired object in the machiene on the shelf - at its lowered level. Placing the layer of plastic in the designated slot above said object and lowering the heater on top of the plastic to heat it up. Once heated, the plastic should be soft, pliable, this is when the object must be quickly pushed up into the plastic using the lever on the side of the machiene and the air sucked out to create a tight vacume creating the vacume formed plastic. To remove the air from the machiene there is a button that should be pressed as the lever is pulling the object upwards. Once the plastic has moulded around the object allow to cool slightly and lower the object to its previous height. Remove the plastic and the object to get the final result.
I did not use this technique in the current project, however I believe that it will be very useful in many to come. On reflection of the entire project I could have vacume formed my lifecast at an early stage in case that my lifecast got chipped or damaged and therefore would allow me to create a duplicate onto which I could have worked.
When it comes to applying colour to the eye make sure to use matte shades as sparkle will attract attention in the wrong places on the skin. Similarly make sure to not use metallic colours as the particles will settly where not wanted. Make sure to lift the eye to get the eye shadow into the creases and cover the entire lid with colour. Also be sure to prep the whole of the eye as the makeup could transfer and cause issues with makeup if not completed successfully. Use a highligh colour in the centre of the eye to brighten the eye. Apply a complimentary colour to the eye socket and then blend a darker colour in the outside triangle of the eye. Use satin or matter eyeliner to give a soft finish. Blend the darker colour halfway into their socket line. Finish with a matte highlighter on the upper eyelid. Apply mascara on the corner lashes to lift the eyes.
For brows use a brow gel to ensure the brows hold their shape. If necessary coloured brow gels are good if the model does not want product in the brows. Use a lighter colour where there is hair in the brow and a darker where there is not to create an even colouring.
For the lips use a liner with a colour very similar to the chosen lipstick. Once lipstick is applied, apply lip gloss in the centre of the lips to give a plumper look to promote youthfullness. Generally for mature makeups use a soft nude colour for the lip liner, make it a warm colour (Corals, coppers, plums, terracottas and reds). It is suggested to stay away from nude tones if necessary use one with dusky pink/brown undertones.
I am personally not well experienced in the application of makeup onto races other than caucasion therefore this lecture and further research has been particularly helpful in the understanding of all the elements required to make a successful result.
Our lecturer completed a makeup on afro skin whilst giving tips and hints as to the correct application. To apply makeup makeup to afro skin it is important to remember that cold skin needs to be warmed and is the skin it too warm it should be cooled. If the makeup has SPF in the product it will make the skin look ashey therefore try not to use it. Look at the undertones of the flesh to decide on the foundation colours. When applying foundation let it settle on the skin as it will oxidise slowly.
Makeups for afro women tend to focus on either the eyes or the lips.
Try to avoid pastel shades as it will look very washy, similarly do not use high shine products on the skin.
When applying the eye makeup hold the brush upside down and press colour into the lash line and then blend outwards. First apply a light base colour on the lid then a darker eye shaping colour (Dark Red in the photo) and finally add shine/bright colour to the centre of the eyes. In order to acheieve a good socket line get the model to look forwards and use a small brush in the outer corner of the eye and apply. Use the original blending brush to combine all products together to create a smooth even finish. Use a bright colour with undertonrs of the dark eye shaping colour in the centre of the eyes to brighten. To achieve a smooth flick dampen a cotton bud with a makeup wipe and pull the bud upwards starting from the base of the eye. Use the blending colour under the eye to give shape. For highlights use opposing colours to the model's flesh (red undertones use yellow). Make sure to highligh browbone with a colour at least two shades lighter than natural skin tone.
For the face apply yellow concealer on the upper cheeks, nose, forehead, chin triangle and under the cheekbones. Blend this into the skin to create highlights. Make sure to work with the natural contours of the skin. Rotate the brush into the cheekbone to create contour, take it into the forehead and down to the jaw. Make sure to use a colour to warm any blue unertones, a baby pink would give an ashey look. Make sure to match the lipstick colour to the pencil and apply. To finish the look use a gel liner and a small angle brow brush on the eyebrows and shape around the eye.
Makeups For different Ethnicities
There have been many advances in digital makeup particularly within the last few decades. This change has come about through Motion Capture (MoCap) and Performance Capture (PerCap). The two concepts allow for the actor to physically perform and have their body movements recorded and digitally altered and similarly have their facial expressions caputred in high detail to alter their faces yet have their mannerisms and expressions pull through creating the digital character. To begin this technology advancement the actor had to have a million flourescent dots spattered on their faces and then have a series of cameras record their facial features. This then allowed a highly detailed chart of their face to be created to then produce digital movement and layer on the desired characteristic of the film character eventually creating the final result. Examples of this effect can be seen in Pirates of the Caribbean; Dead Man's Chest and Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.
 Westworld 1973First 2D Computer Images Den of Geek, Westworld Poster (2014) [Online Image] Available From: http://www.denofgeek.com/tv/westworld/31632/more-cast-members-announced-for-westworld-tv-show Date Accessed:1/12/2014 |  Star Wars 1977First 3D Graphics Star Wars, Rebel Fighters Approach the Death Star [Online Image] Available From: http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Star_Wars:_Episode_IV_A_New_Hope Accessed Date:1/11/2014 |  Tron 1982CG Light Bikes Tron, Light Cycles (2012) [Online Image] Available From: http://brianwelk.com/2012/11/23/tron-1982/ Accessed Date: 1/12/2014 |
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 The Abyss 1998Digital Water Effect The Abyss, [Online Image] Available From: http://www.empireonline.com/features/history-of-cgi/p7 Accessed Date: 1/12/2014 |  Total Recall 1990.jpgComputer Generated Face Total Recall (2012) [Online Image] Available From: http://www.gamesradar.com/90-greatest-90s-movie-moments/ Accessed Date: 1/12/2014 |  Death Becomes Her 1992CGI Hole in stomach and Head Bent Backwards Death Becomes Her Hole (2012) [Online Image] Available From: http://www.screeninsults.com/death-becomes-her.php Accessed Date: 1/12/2014 |
 Jurassic Park 1993.jpgFirst Physically Textured CGI Jurassic Park (2010) [Online Image] Available From: http://www.empireonline.com/features/history-of-cgi/p8 Accessed Date: 1/12/2014 |  The Mask 1994CG Jaw Drop and Eyes The Mask (2014) [Online Image] Available From: http://pixgood.com/the-mask-jaw-drop.html Accessed Date: 1/12/2014 |  Toy Story 1995First Full Length CG Film Toy Story (2010) [Online Image] Available From: http://www.empireonline.com/features/history-of-cgi/p9 Accessed Date: 1/12/2014 |
 The Matrix 1999Development of Bullet Time Effects The Matrix (2010) [Online Image] Available From: http://www.empireonline.com/features/history-of-cgi/p13 Accessed Date: 1/12/2014 |  Hollow Man 2000Digitally Created Muscle, Bone and Flesh Hollow Man (2013) [Online Image] Available From: https://bloodcrypt.wordpress.com/2013/08/22/review-hollow-man-2000/ Accessed Date:1/12/2014 |  Spider Man 20023D Maya Software Spidey and the Green Goblin (2009 ) [Online Image] Available From: http://www.gamesradar.com/the-20-worst-movie-cgi-moments/ Accessed Date:1/12/2014 |
 Final Fantasy 2001First Photo Realistic Human Actors Final Fantasy: The Spirits Within (2010) [Online Image] Available From: http://www.empireonline.com/features/history-of-cgi/p15 Accessed Date: 1/12/2014 |  Lord of the Rings; The Two Towers 2002Motion Capture and CG Artifical Intelligence Gollum (2010) [Online Image] Available From: http://www.empireonline.com/features/history-of-cgi/p14 Accessed Date: 1/12/2014 |  King Kong 2005Hyper Realistc CGI King Kong(2014) [Online Image] Available From: http://kingkong.wikia.com/wiki/King_Kong_Wiki Accessed Date:1/12/2014 |
 Sin City 2005Black and White and Character Effects Sin City (2014) [Online Image] Available From: http://movieboozer.com/movie-review/sin-city-2005 Accessed Date:1/12/2014 |  TMNT 2007Digitally Created Turtles TMNT (2014 ) [Online Image] Available From: http://turtlepedia.wikia.com/wiki/File:Tmnt_2007.jpg Accessed Date:1/12/2014 |  Fantastic Four Silver Surfer 2007Fully Captured Live Action Silver Surfer (2014) [Online Image] Available From: http://www.digitalspy.co.uk/movies/i405583-8/marvel-at-the-movies-superheroes-in-pictures-fantastic-four-rise-of-the-silver-surfer-2007.html#~oXTBxZX6Xh54or Accessed Date:1/12/2014 |
HowcastCareStyle (2013)How to Apply Foundation to Black Skin Available From: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_yIfT5LoSA Accessed Date: 10/12/2014
HowcastCareStyle (2013)How to Apply Eye Makeup Black Women Makeup Available From: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BohF5w8Ksk Accessed Date: 10/12/2014
These videos below have proved extremely helpful in the application of makeup on black skin and detail important things to consider during the application.
Thebuzzweekly (2014) MAC Cosmetics AW 2014 Trend Presentation - Off Colour & Streamlined [Online] Available From: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_9n4_HP1CQ Accessed Date: 11/12/2014
Thebuzzweekly (2014) MAC Cosmetics AW 2014 Trend Presentation - On Reflection & Unprocessed [Online] Available From:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8z0xZAv2k_A&feature=youtu.be Accessed Date: 11/12/2014